Enter a village where time stands still, you will be surprised by the variety of things to do and the generosity you will encounter here. Bake your own bread, eat hearty country meals, spend time in one of the many libraries, attend a cinema screening, a concert, browse an art gallery or take a drive along the road to nowhere.
I’ve heard McGregor described as Franschhoek was 15 years ago but this does a disservice to McGregor’s singular character.
Though the locals are appreciative of visitors they are not clamouring to have the peaceful nature of life here changed. I met a few people with similar stories of driving into McGregor one weekend and feeling so at peace that they immediately made up their minds to move here and never look back. Many people pass through Robertson onto the R62 without knowing they are missing the turn off for McGregor. Once you visit the village you won’t want to share your secret either.
McGregor’s own Cinema Paradiso
Michael and Freddie bought Wahnfried, a gorgeous Zanzibari-inspired salon house for the village. They hold music events and film screenings here that anyone can enjoy. Just another example of the generosity that knits together life in McGregor. Like many small towns in South Africa the legacy of apartheid is apparent with the main road slicing a divide between those who have a lot and those who have less. People here do seem to care about community thus there are many shared spaces which are free of charge and open to the whole community. For info about their current program send a mail to Wahnfried. Call: 072 601 1616.
Take the Road to Nowhere to Lord’s Winery
I have to say the winery I enjoyed visiting the most was Lord’s. Drive out 10 km on a dirt road (known as the Road to Nowhere) and you’ll find the winery ringed by mountains and conducive to rose-tinged sunsets. Expect a warm welcome at the winery (we were hosted by Melané) and you’ll be led into the cellar among the barrels to do a tasting, perhaps including wine out of the barrels if you’re lucky.
Because the vineyards are between 480m and 500m above sea level the terroir is perfect for pinot noir. The award-winning 2010 pinot noir (Gold Michelangelo International Wine Awards, Silver Veritas Wine Awards 2012 and the Bronze Old Mutual Trophy Wine) and the Chardonnay Pinot Noir Methode Cap Classique were delicious highlights. The winery has a warm, authentic atmosphere. Do yourself a favour and visit. Open from Monday to Friday from 08:30 to 16:00 and on Saturday from 10:00 to 15:00. Closed on Sunday.
Visit the library of Irish poet, Richard Murphy, at Tebaldi’s restaurant
We experienced dinner at Tebaldi’s, a restaurant in the village named after the voluble Italian prima donna, the sign decorated with a plumed peacock. We were seated in the poetry room near a roaring fire quaffing single vineyard Arendsig wine in the company of Lourens van der Westhuizen the winemaker himself. If you venture into the library you’ll find yourself surrounded by books, the collection donated by illustrious poet Richard Murphy. Murphy now lives in Ceylon but used to divide his time between Dublin and Durban (where his daughter lives). In summer you could happily sit outside at tables that edge the garden. Lourens is very knowledgeable and passionate about his single vineyard wines. He explained how the Robertson Valley is home to pockets of greatness or little areas of soil which make it possible to produce extraordinary wine of all cultivars, depending on the terroir of each pocket.
Accommodation
There are also cosy cottages, rural farm retreats and winefarm escapes. Contact Mira at McGregor Country Getaways for a wide range of options.
Dog Treats at the McGregor Morning Market
#mcgregor dog treats at the morning market #winterweekendescape
A photo posted by Travelstart (@travelstart) on
The Saturday morning market, though very gently attended, was host to a number of hounds who came to get their weekly treat. Two of them left their owners sleeping in at home and trotted over of their own accord. How they know it’s Saturday is one of McGregor’s numerous delicious mysteries. The market lasts for about an hour from 9am to 10am every Saturday,you can find fresh produce, jams, pies, spanish tarts and koeksisters.
Bread-making, Olives and Wine
The Riedel Glass Taste-the-Difference Test
Drink a glass of the wonderfully-titled easy-drinking “frankly my dear” while sitting by the fire and chatting with Rowan and Caryl. Like most of the wines in the Robertson and McGregor area Esona strive to not rely so heavily on an overbearing taste of wood and instead to bring out the fruitiness in the wine. Old Cellar tasting hours are from 09h00 to 17h00 (Monday to Friday) and 10h00 to 16h00 (on Saturdays and Public Holidays). Closed on Sundays, Christmas & New Year’s Day. Call 023 616 2023. Book for their Taste of Africa and Taste the Difference wine experience combined for the Robertson slow festival, book here. Find Esona on Route R317 between Robertson and Bonnievale, GPS: -33° 54′ 14.60″, +20° 0′ 41.19″.
Get involved and help out when you visit McGregor
Tanagra for Grappa and Eau de Vie
They are all very reasonable priced and in demand as people keep going back. I’d choose “Faraway” which sleeps 6 with a remote location or Hill cottage (a romantic getaway for 2). Each has a fire place with a ‘starter set’ of firewood and firelighters (more available for a fee) and some have private plunge pools. Sample their single vineyard wines, (heavenly chaos if they have available) and eau de vie (fruit spirits- particularly the lemon one) and have a look at Robert’s impressive 200 litre copper still (used for distilling spirits) which he brought over from Germany. To find out exact prices and make a booking mail Robert and Anette here. They are open for grappa tastings between 9am and 5pm (to avoid disappointment call 023 625 1780).
Eseltjiesrus Donkey Sanctuary
Bella the donkey at the Donkey Sanctuary near Mcgregor! A photo posted by Travelstart (@travelstart) on
The donkey sanctuary on the left side of the road (opposite Tanagra) as you drive towards McGregor, 4 km from the start of the town, is a special experience. Children and adults alike will be enchanted and moved upon meeting the donkeys. The Donkey sanctuary does amazing work rehabilitating the abused animals and allowing them to live peacefully in the pastures. Have tea or a breakfast quesadilla on a verandah in the sun at Eseltjiesrus restaurant. Call 023 625 1593.
Temenos Gardens Meditation Retreat
Also
- Take a 15km hike to Greyton (stop midway for a picnic at the waterfall). The trail starts at the end of the road to nowhere.
- Visit Van Loveren Wines in the Robertson Valley and hire a bike (R100) and hit the mountain bike trails nearby.
- Take a tour of McGregor on the noddy bus guided by Ernest Williams (who offers a wealth of knowledge about the village). The noddy bus is a wooden open-topped bus with an isuzu bakkie base that drives slowly around McGregor. See all the old houses- the Strategic Environmental Forum has stated that:
“To this day, McGregor remains the best example of a Cape vernacular village, housing a wide variety of vernacular building types. Sixty-five historical homesteads and other structures have been identified in this survey”.
Call Mira on 023 625 1519 & 076 411 9477 for more info on how to arrange a tour and any others you might be interested in.
Additional reasons to visit McGregor
The Robertson Valley Slow Festival: 7-10 August 2015 (on winefarms at Bonnievale, Ashton and McGregor). Call 023 626 3167.
McGregor Poetry Festival: 27-30 August 2015
Please contact Jennifer Johnson (the festival co-ordinator) for more information.
023 625 1908 / 084 675 1164 / or send her a mail here.
Wine on the River: 16 – 18 October 2015 (on the banks of the Breede River on Goudmyn Farm between Robertson and Bonnievale). Visit McGregor in conjunction with the festival, or consider staying in McGregor and spending a day at the farm.